The Black Forest and Baden-Württemberg
The Black Forest covers the southwest corner of the country, between the Rhine and Lake Constance. Expect dark fir forest, farmhouses with huge roofs, waterfalls at Triberg and long-distance trails such as the Westweg. Freiburg is the sunny university town at its edge, and Baden-Baden has the spa baths. Stuttgart, the state capital, has the Mercedes-Benz and Porsche museums, and Heidelberg the castle ruins above the Neckar. Lake Constance, shared with Austria and Switzerland, is good for cycling and swimming in summer.
Düsseldorf, the Ruhr and Aachen
Düsseldorf, about 25 minutes from Cologne by train, has the Königsallee shopping boulevard, the modern MedienHafen on the Rhine and an old town full of bars pouring dark Altbier. North of it, the Ruhr was Germany’s coal and steel region, and its old industrial sites now hold museums, concerts and walking trails. The Zollverein Coal Mine Industrial Complex in Essen is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and the blast furnaces of the Landschaftspark Duisburg-Nord are lit up in color at night. At the western border, Aachen Cathedral, where Charlemagne is buried, was the first German site on the UNESCO list.
Central Germany: Thuringia, Saxony-Anhalt and the Harz
Central Germany is where you follow Luther, Goethe and the Bauhaus. Goethe and Schiller lived and worked in Weimar, where the Bauhaus school was also founded, Erfurt has a medieval old town with the Krämerbrücke, a bridge lined with houses, and above Eisenach stands the Wartburg Castle, where Luther translated the New Testament. Lutherstadt Wittenberg and the Bauhaus buildings in Dessau are in Saxony-Anhalt. The Harz mountains rise to 1,141 meters at the Brocken, and the steam trains of the Harz narrow-gauge railways climb to the summit, though services are sometimes suspended because of storms or forest fire risk, so check the timetable. Quedlinburg, on the edge of the Harz, has hundreds of half-timbered houses and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, as is the old mining town of Goslar.
Potsdam, Brandenburg and the Spreewald
Potsdam, a short S-Bahn ride from Berlin, has Sanssouci and the other palaces and parks of the Prussian kings, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Southeast of Berlin, the Spreewald is a maze of canals and forest where you can tour by punt or kayak and try the local pickled gherkins. Brandenburg’s lakes and forests make easy day trips by regional train with the Deutschlandticket.
Bremen and Lower Saxony
Bremen’s market square, with its town hall and the Roland statue, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and the narrow lanes of the Schnoor quarter are a short walk away. Look for the bronze statue of the Town Musicians from the Grimm fairy tale next to the town hall. In Lower Saxony, the Lüneburg Heath turns purple when the heather blooms from August to early September, Hanover has the baroque Herrenhausen Gardens, and most of the East Frisian Islands in the North Sea are car-free.